I didn’t plan to cry on the side of a mountain in the South of France. But that’s how our day in Èze began—wedged inside a struggling rental car on a steep incline, one foot on the brake, the other on my last nerve. It should have been simple: a short drive from Nice, a quiet afternoon in a cliffside village. Instead, it became a lesson in humility, kindness, and letting go of control, one gear shift at a time.
Table of Contents
- The Drive That Almost Broke Me
- First Impressions of Èze
- Walking Through History
- A Taste of the Riviera
- Perfume and Promises
- The Way Down
- Final Thoughts
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The Drive That Almost Broke Me
We were only thirty minutes from Nice, but it felt like a world away. I had rented a car for a day in Èze—a basic, manual transmission with a golf cart engine and all the charm of a lawnmower. I hadn’t driven stick in years. But I told myself it would be fine. It wasn’t.
The road wound up the mountain like a lazy snake. The incline was steeper than I expected, the car weaker than I imagined. At first, we crawled. Then we stalled. And then we rolled—slowly but unmistakably—backward into a growing line of traffic. I pumped the clutch, whispered prayers, and tried not to cry.
A man knocked on the window. I didn’t know him. He motioned for me to get out. I hesitated—my kids were in the back seat—but I opened the door anyway. He climbed in without a word. I turned and sprinted uphill, my chest tight with fear, my eyes locked on the car that now carried my whole world.
By the time I reached the top, the man had parked it in a safe spot near a small lot. He stepped out, nodded, and disappeared before I could say thank you. That’s how our day in Èze began—tense, humbling, and unforgettable.
First Impressions of Èze
My hands were still shaking when I stepped into Èze.
The village rose from the cliff like something out of a dream. Stone buildings hugged the hillside, framed by bright flowers and the endless blue of the Mediterranean below. I needed a moment to catch my breath—not just from the run, but from the shock of how quickly panic had given way to peace.
A day in Èze is all uphill. Literally. There are a lot of stairs and steep, uneven paths. If you’re going, wear comfortable shoes. You’ll want to stop often—partly to catch your breath, partly because the views demand it.
Don’t miss the Jardin Exotique, the cactus garden at the very top of Èze. It was quiet, otherworldly—spiky plants reaching toward the sky, bursts of color breaking through the stone. But it was the view that stopped me cold. Far below, the Mediterranean shimmered like glass, dotted with white yachts so perfect they looked like toys. The wind was soft. The sun felt gentler up there. After the chaos of the drive, it felt surreal to be standing so still, watching something so beautiful. If you’re wondering whether the climb is worth it, trust me—it is.
Click Here for the Best Things to do in Eze
Walking Through History
We wandered slowly. I let the day stretch out, pulled along by curiosity and sunlight. The stone beneath my sandals felt warm, uneven, ancient. Each turn brought a new view—cascading bougainvillea, carved wooden doors, ceramic signs pointing to hidden galleries.
At the top of the village, we reached the remains of a 12th-century castle. The crumbling stones sit quietly now, wrapped in flowering vines and memories of battles long gone. It’s the perfect spot to take in the full sweep of the Mediterranean. You feel small—in a good way.
Stroll through the medieval streets at your own pace—getting lost is part of the charm. Don’t miss the stairs beside Floriane Maels’ studio—one of the best photo spots in Eze.
A Taste of the Riviera
Later, we ducked into a tiny cafe lunch. I ordered a plate of pissaladière—salty, sweet, and rich with caramelized onions and anchovies—and a chilled glass of rosé. The kids shared a crêpe. No one said much. We were tired in a good way.
For a romantic dinner, try Le Nid d’Aigle or Le Café du Jardin, where the views are just as unforgettable as the food. There’s something about a day in Èze that makes even the simplest lunch feel luxurious. Every bite tasted earned.
Perfume and Promises
Before we left, I stepped into the Fragonard perfume workshop. The village’s elevation, sun, and sea breeze make Èze ideal for growing herbs and flowers used in fragrance. The scent of jasmine, citrus, and rosemary lingered in the air. It reminded me of a different day—in Singapore—when I made my first signature scent. This was my second time.
I spent nearly an hour blending oils and choosing notes. The process felt meditative. Personal. I left with a perfume that smelled like summer on a hill. That bottle now sits on my dresser, a memory that lingers long after the day is gone.
I didn’t expect to leave a day in Èze with something so tangible. But there it was—proof that I had been there, that the day happened, that I made something beautiful out of the climb.Don’t miss Fragonard—especially if you want to create your own signature scent. It was such a lovely experience, I did it again a few years ago on Arab Street in Singapore.
The Way Down
We only stayed in village for a few hours, but there are so many cute hotels and bed and breakfasts in Èze to choose from. If I had planned ahead, I would have booked a hotel in the village to see it lit up at night. Still, we had a lovely place waiting for us back in Nice.
As we wound down the mountain toward Nice, the sun dropped low, painting the cliffs in gold. I looked in the rearview mirror. My kids were asleep. The car was still slow, still loud, still struggling—but we were moving forward.
That night, I thought about how travel strips you down. It shows you what you’re made of—your fears, your instincts, your strength. Our day in Èze reminded me that even the steepest climbs lead somewhere beautiful.
Final Thoughts
Èze is about 8 miles from Nice and 5 miles from Monaco. Start your day early to beat the crowds and summer heat. Parking near the village is limited, so arrive early or park at the base and walk up. Wear good walking shoes—the hills are no joke, and the stone paths can be uneven.
If you aren’t as fearless (or stubborn) as I was, skip the car altogether. Avoid driving stick if you’re not confident—the hills are brutal and traffic is unforgiving. You can easily reach Èze by public bus or guided tour. Bus 82 and 602 run regularly from Nice’s Vauban station and take about 30 minutes to Èze Village. The fare is low, but the walk through the village is steep—so plan accordingly.
If you’d rather skip the logistics, half-day or full-day tours from Nice often include transportation, a visit to Fragonard, and nearby stops like Monaco or La Turbie. It’s a relaxed and informative way to spend a day in Èze. Or take the Chemin de Nietzsche (Nietzsche Path), which starts near the train station and climbs steeply to the village. The hike takes about an hour and can be tough, but the views are worth it. Wear good shoes, go slow, and stop to rest when you need to. As you get closer to the top, you’ll notice the fresh scent of citrus, rosemary, and sea air—Eze is just ahead.
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