A Day In, Around and Under the DMZ

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Come with me on a Day In, Around and Under the DMZ– the world’s most dangerous border. Located between North and South Korea, it is an emotional tour all Americans should experience. As a result, it is the most heavily militarized border in the world. However, there are no troops along the DMZ. Instead, it is guarded by pillboxes, landmines, barbed wire, and tank stoppers. So of course, I’ve got to see it for myself.

Table of Contents

• My Day In, Around and Under the DMZ
• Tick the DMZ off My Bucket List
• Why I Decided to Visit the DMZ
• Korean War History
• Still Fighting the Korean War
• What is the DMZ?
• The Tour of JSA
• 3rd Underground Tunnel
• The Dora Observatory
• Joint Security Area (JSA)
• The Axe Murders
  • Operation Paul Bunyon
• Dorasan Station
• Defection of Travis King
• My Thoughts About the DMZ Tour
• Departing Thoughts

 

My Day In, Around and Under the DMZ

The border between North and South Korea

First of all, you are greeted by a large sign that states, “You must sign.” However, it is worded to get your full attention, as the DMZ is still a very dangerous place.

The DMZ, straddling the border between North and South Korea, is not a hot spot for tourist activity. However, it is a must-see destination for military families stationed on the peninsula especially if you want to get a perspective on why soldiers were originally assigned to Korea. And why they are still there now.

This is the scariest and most interesting place I’ve ever visited

— Karen Reynolds-Chen from Washington

Tick the DMZ off My Bucket List

These are just a couple of the instructions we were given when I visited the 43rd country on my bucket list yesterday—North Korea. Those were the first lines of the form I was required to sign. I read it to the end. Most of the people in attendance did too. A soldier delivered the briefing behind a pair of very intimidating shades meant to intimidate– trust me it works. They look totally badass.

Why I Decided to Visit the DMZ

I don’t want to bore you with a whole lot of Korean, political, or military history. But you do need a little background in order to understand why we have a DMZ in the first place. And I apologize in advance for all the acronyms prevalent you can’t avoid when talking about the military. Korea enjoyed dynastic rule up until 1910 when it became colonized by Japan. Japan stayed on the peninsula until 1945.

After the Japanese surrendered in 1945, the country was divided into a northern part, protected by the Soviets, and a southern part protected primarily by the United States. In 1948 the powers failed to agree on the formation of a single government or ideology And this divider became the modern states of North (DPRK) and South Korea.

Korean War History

The Korean War began on 25 June 1950, when the North Koreans invaded the south across the 38th parallel all the way down the south near the port city of Busan. UN forces pushed them back across the 38th parallel and the fighting lasted for 3 years.

Still Fighting the Korean War

An Armistice Agreement was signed on July 27, 1953, and remains in effect. The armistice is only a cease-fire between military forces and not an agreement between the two governments. Consequently, no peace treaty has ever been signed which means that the Korean War has not officially ended. North Korea has announced it will not abide by the armistice 6 separate times.

South Korea has prospered and maintains a functional democracy and electoral system of government based on Capitalism. Meanwhile, North Korea has evolved into the world’s first monarchial Communist State where power has been transferred from father to son to grandson. The people rely on economic aid and live under a weird cult-like society where the supreme leader is more God-like than man.

What is the DMZ?

The DMZ or Demilitarized Zone is a 155 miles long and 2.5 miles wide strip of land that runs east to west. It practically cuts the Korean Peninsula in half. It is the most heavily militarized border in the world. However, there are no troops in the DMZ itself except in the JSA. It is guarded by pillboxes, landmines, barbed wire, and tank stoppers.

And either side of the imaginary border used to be shared heightened tensions, threats and even deaths occurred. As a result, now each country stays on its side of the border. It remains dangerous due to intermittent violence from the North. So, of course, I had to see it for myself.

The Tour of JSA

The Daegu Chapter of the good neighborprogram sponsored the tour. However, there are numerous comparable tours to choose from. Our tour began at 0630 in Daegu with a 5-hour bus trip to the border. We picked up our tour guide after a bulgogi lunch at Imijigak Unification Park and North Korea Center. There was a “rally” taking place. So I stayed away from the main buildings. I also walked around the statues and aircraft in the park.

Military personnel cannot participate in foreign demonstrations. It’s impossible to know who is in the crowd and it could be dangerous. So I rejoined the group. However, there are also over 400 photos and documents on display in the North Korea Center of Unification Board.

3rd Underground Tunnel

The 3^rd Tunnel is one of the 4 known tunnels under the border discovered in 1978. It runs from north to south 240 feet underground. It was discovered after an explosion and never completed. The intercept tunnel was quite steep and hard to keep from feeling like gravity would take me at any time.

Once at the bottom the hard hats we were required to wear came in handy. Illustrated by the fact that I hit my hat several times while walking through the tunnels. The walls are cool and wet and there is a freshwater well with potable water. You cannot take personal belongings into the tunnels. But there are free lockers available to store your belongings. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take photos of the tunnels. However, don’t attempt the tunnel if you are claustrophobic, suffer from asthma, or difficulty breathing.

The Dora Observatory

On a clear day, you can see the 3rd largest city of Gaesung in North Korea, as well as Kijongdong Village. Kijongdong was renamed Propaganda Village by UNC forces. For 500 Won you can even spy on North North Korea through binoculars. However, today the weather is like soup. Therefore the binoculars couldn’t cut through the fog.

The village was created by the DPRK after the South Korean Forces settled Daeseong-dong aka Freedom Village, the community where the villagers who live and farm the DMZ live. The only way to become a member of the village is to be born into it or by marriage (women only). Entry into the village is not permitted, but we drove by it on our way to the JSA. The South Korean government subsidizes the villagers. They own approximately 17 acres of farmland, live in larger than average homes, and make approximately $92,000 per year. In a strange but not unusual chain of events, the ROK government installed a 100m tall flag pole.

A Lot of Noise

The North Koreans, not to be undone, installed a taller pole measuring 160 m, one of the tallest in the world. The flag is humungous and has a dry weight of more than 40 pounds. Kijongdong Village is also the source of a loudspeaker, one of many in the area that blares propaganda about the supreme leader and the North Korean government to the villagers, hence the name. If they do defect, they won’t find anyone at home. The village is fake; many of the buildings have painted doors and windows. There is a really good model of the area on display inside. No photos are allowed.

Joint Security Area (JSA)

It’s important to note that I have not included any sensitive information or images. With that being said, JSA was the part of the tour I was most interested in seeing because of the images I had seen over the years. It is the place where both countries stand and face each other on a day to day basis. It is also the spot where you can cross over into North Korea albeit in an empty conference room used for negotiations.

After a briefing and transfer from our commercial buses to UN buses, we toured JSA. We were escorted to the Joint Security Area that includes the Freedom House and the MAC (Military Armistice Commission) Conference Room. Afterward, we toured the area that included the Bridge of No Return where prisoners of war were exchanged, an unmanned checkpoint (since the 1980s), and the memorial to where two American officers were killed in 1976.

The Axe Murders

The DMZ has been the site of some truly awful events, and the Axe Murder Incident is perhaps the most notorious of them all. In August 1976, American and South Korean soldiers set out to trim a large poplar tree that partially obstructed the view from an observation tower within the Joint Security Area (JSA). The mission seemed routine, but it quickly turned deadly.

Operation Paul Bunyon

As the soldiers began their task, they were suddenly and viciously assaulted by North Korean forces. In the chaos that ensued, two U.S. officers—Captain Arthur Boniface and Lieutenant Mark Barrett—were brutally killed with their own axes by the North Koreans. The violence was shocking in its brutality and escalated tensions in an already volatile area.

In response, the United States launched Operation Paul Bunyan, a massive show of force intended to complete the mission of cutting down the tree and to send a clear message to North Korea. They deployed hundreds of troops, supported by attack helicopters, B-52 bombers, and fighter jets, making it one of the most heavily militarized operations ever carried out in the DMZ. The overwhelming display of power worked; they cut down the tree without further incident, and North Korea later accepted responsibility for the murders.

As a tribute to Captain Boniface, the camp was renamed Camp Boniface. When we toured the DMZ, we drove past the very spot where those soldiers were killed. We also saw the Bridge of No Return, a haunting reminder of the division, and the exact location where the poplar tree once stood. There is something profoundly surreal about standing in a place where such a tragic event occurred—something that reading about it in a book simply can’t convey. Seeing these sites in person makes the history feel real and immediate, and it serves as a stark reminder of the tensions that continue to exist on the Korean Peninsula.

Dorasan Station

Dorasan Station is more than just the last train stop in South Korea; it stands as a powerful symbol of hope and division. Located just 650 meters from the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), it’s a station with no passengers, a place where the tracks extend northward into uncertainty. Despite this, Dorasan Station is a crucial stop on the proposed intercontinental rail system that could one day link the Korean Peninsula with Europe.

Currently, the station sits quietly, a modern yet eerily empty facility that reflects the complex relationship between the two Koreas. They constructed it with the future in mind—a future where the Korean Peninsula is reunified, and trains travel freely across borders, connecting South Korea to destinations across Asia and Europe. The station’s presence is a reminder of the potential for peace and the ongoing division that keeps the dream of this rail system unrealized.

Visitors to Dorasan Station can walk along the platform, gaze down the tracks that disappear into the DMZ, and reflect on what might be possible if the political landscape were different. It’s a poignant experience, one that brings to life the aspirations for reunification and the stark realities of the current geopolitical situation. The station itself is fully operational, complete with ticket booths and a customs area, ready to serve passengers who have yet to come. It’s a station waiting for a journey that hasn’t begun—a powerful testament to hope, perseverance, and the ever-present possibility of change.

Defection of Travis King

I first visited Korea in 1977 when I was eleven years old. That trip left me with countless wonderful memories, but I don’t recall hearing about the Axe Murder Incident at the time. Fast forward to today, if you’re planning a visit to the DMZ, there are some important things you should know. The DMZ is not your typical tourist destination; it’s a place where history, tension, and geopolitics collide.

This week, the DMZ and Joint Security Area (JSA) Tours have made front-page news due to the recent defection of a former U.S. soldier. Travis King, a 23-year-old Private First Class, recently discharged from the U.S. Army, joined a JSA Tour and ultimately sought asylum from the North Korean government.

There is still much we don’t know about the circumstances surrounding King’s defection. However, we do know that King had just finished serving a two-month sentence in a South Korean prison for assault. He was supposed to return to the United States, where he would face further punishment at Fort Bliss. Instead, King managed to evade his military escort and, rather than boarding his flight back home, joined the JSA Tour. This unexpected turn of events has left many questions unanswered, and the situation continues to develop. We will update this post as more information becomes available.

My Thoughts About the DMZ Tour

The tour I took was fascinating and offered a unique perspective on the complex dynamics of the Korean Peninsula. Standing just steps away from the border put the realities of the war and the ongoing tensions into stark perspective. One particularly striking moment was learning about a Soviet asylum seeker who made a desperate dash for freedom across the border. We were shocked by how far he had to run, all while being pursued by over 20 North Korean soldiers who were firing at him. He was truly running for his life.

Nothing drives home the gravity of the situation like being there in person. The experience made the tensions and history of the region feel incredibly real and immediate. With the recent defection of Travis King, the DMZ has once again reminded us of the unpredictable and high-stakes environment that exists at this tense border.

Departing Thoughts

I first visited Korea in 1977 when I was eleven years old. That trip left me with countless wonderful memories, but I don’t recall hearing about the Axe Murder Incident at the time. Fast forward to today, if you’re planning a visit to the DMZ, there are some important things you should know. The DMZ is not your typical tourist destination; it’s a place where history, tension, and geopolitics collide.

The tour we took was nothing short of fascinating. I walked away with a much deeper understanding of the complexities surrounding the Korean Peninsula. Standing there, mere steps from the border, really put the realities of the war and the ongoing tension into stark perspective. One moment that particularly stood out was learning about a Soviet asylum seeker who made a desperate dash for freedom across the border. We were stunned at how far he had to run, all while being pursued by more than 20 North Korean soldiers who were firing at him. He was truly running for his life.

There’s nothing quite like being there in person to grasp the gravity of the situation. The experience made it all feel incredibly real and immediate.

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