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February in Chiang Mai wastes no time warming up. The cool morning breeze disappears quickly, replaced by still, heavy heat. After breakfast, I felt a little restless and needed to move. Steven didn’t share the urge, so I laced my shoes, grabbed water, and headed out the door alone. I flagged down a red Songthaew, pointed to the trail leading to Wat Pha Lat on my phone, and climbed in. Today I was hiking the Monk’s Trail.
Table of Contents
- Finding the Trail
- Running Ahead
- Into the Green
- A Temple Revealed
- Quiet Companions
- Wandering Wat Pha Lat
- The Right Place to Stop
- Practical Tips
Finding the Monk’s Trail
The driver, bless his heart, actually dropped me off too soon, but I didn’t realize it at first. I stood there, puzzled, until I spotted another group being dropped off farther up the road. I followed the truck on foot, not knowing then that I was beginning something I would remember for a long time.
When I finally reached the trailhead, the air buzzed with voices—sharp, loud, and unwanted. A group of German hikers had just arrived, their laughter echoing through the trees like the Sound of Music on speakers. Their driver motioned for me to join them, but I smiled and shook my head. Not today. Although, I lived in Germany for 6 years and can speak some German, I wasn’t in the mood for loud conversations or group bonding.
I needed solitude, not a soundtrack. So I whispered a quiet Auf Wiedersehen to the group I never joined and looked around for another option.
Just then, two young Thai girls appeared, calm and focused. I asked if I could follow behind, and they welcomed me with a nod and smiles. We moved fast, and before long, the laughter faded behind us—replaced by birdsong, breeze, and the sound of our own quiet footsteps.
Running Ahead
About twenty minutes in, the girls turned to me and said, “We’re going to run now. You can join if you can keep up.”
I laughed and waved them on their way. I knew that wasn’t going to happen, and I wouldn’t see them again on the trail. I have a lot of strengths. Trail running isn’t one of them.
I was left on my own. So I settled into the rhythm of the hike. The path was worn and clearly marked with bands of orange cloth tied around tree trunks. I passed a few hikers on their way down, including a group from Daegu, South Korea. They were hiking barefoot, something I had seen often during the 6 years I lived there. We exchanged a few words, then continued in opposite directions.
Into the Green
The forest around me began to shift—less tangled, more open. Wildflowers bloomed along the path, arching overhead to form a soft tunnel of color. I walked beneath them slowly, letting the petals brush my shoulders.
On the other side of the arch, the trees parted to reveal a simple bridge curving across a stream. A blue sign reminded visitors to dress modestly and keep voices low. I paused, lifted the bottom layer of my shirt, and draped it over my shoulders. Then I crossed.
A Temple Revealed
Wat Pha Lat doesn’t announce itself. It emerges—quietly, humbly—from the trees. The temple seems to grow from the forest floor, its stone steps softened by moss, its carvings tucked among tangled roots and bamboo stalks.
Once a resting place for monks on their pilgrimage to Doi Suthep, the temple still feels like a sanctuary. There are no ticket lines, no crowds—only water, stone, and silence.
I heard the waterfall before I saw it. Then, rounding a bend, I found it spilling down smooth rock. A shallow pond stretched out below, its glassy surface reflecting monks’ robes, twisted branches, and a faded shrine resting off to one side.
Through a break in the trees, I caught a glimpse of the city below—Chiang Mai stretched out in soft, hazy light, distant and quiet.
Quiet Companions
A group of monks passed by, their bare feet crushing gravel with soft, rhythmic steps. Their bright orange robes floated gently with each movement, a vivid contrast to the green around them. No matter how many times I see them, I am always intrigued- almost wishing we could be friends so I could know the secrets of the universe, too.
Statues of prayerful guardians lined the path, hands pressed together in wai—the traditional Thai gesture of respect. It’s more than a greeting. Depending on its use, a wai can say hello, offer thanks, ask forgiveness, or show reverence. The higher the hands are held, the more profound the respect. Here, among stone and trees, the meaning felt spiritual. One statue knelt silently beside a bamboo grove, hands lifted just below her face, watching something I couldn’t see. I stood beside her for a moment, as if we were both waiting for the same thing to arrive.
Wandering Wat Pha Lat
Unlike other temples, there is no central hall, no singular destination. Wat Pha Lat is spread out like my thoughts unfolding. You explore it in pieces—stone steps leading nowhere in particular, moss-covered carvings that seem older than the trees.
A long staircase flanked by white Nagas rises from the earth, part sculpture, part protector. Their bodies twist upward like a current of stillness, urging you forward—but also asking that you move with care.
The trail from the base to Wat Pha Lat takes about 45 minutes if you walk at a steady pace. From there, it continues uphill for another hour to reach Doi Suthep. Most hikers press on. I chose not to.
The Right Place to Stop
I had no desire to keep climbing to Doi Suthep. The path may have led higher, but I had already arrived. Here was the peace I desired, layered into overgrown gardens. I sat near the water and listened to the forest. Birds called from above. Water fell in soft pulses. Monks passed by without speaking, their presence gentle and grounded.
I closed my eyes and breathed in the moment—grateful, quiet, whole. I didn’t need another temple at the top of a hill to feel something sacred because I was already there.
This city is magical. I couldn’t believe how far I’d come—not just today, but in life.
I was sitting in a tropical forest in northern Thailand. I must figure out how to bring this feeling back home with me. But for now, it doesn’t get any better than this.
Practical Tips
- Trailhead Location: The Monk’s Trail begins just beyond the Chiang Mai Zoo. Follow the red cloth markers to stay on the path.
- Time & Distance: It takes about 45 minutes to reach Wat Pha Lat. Continuing to Doi Suthep adds another hour and climbs steeply.
- Dress Code: Shoulders and knees must be covered inside temple grounds, but not on the periphery. A lightweight scarf or layered top is all you really need.
- What to Bring: Water, sunscreen, bug spray, and comfortable walking shoes. The trail is shaded but humid.
- Getting There: Red Songthaews are the easiest option, but some people drive their motorbikes. If needed, show the driver this address:
Wat Pha Lat
บ้านห้วยผาลาด 101, Sriwichai Alley, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200
Google Maps Link
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