What You Need to Know About Wat Ban Pong Pagoda Before You Go

Phra That Si Mueang Pong Pagoda

I love temples, and Chiang Mai has some of the most beautiful temples I’ve ever seen. But this time, I wanted something different—not just new to me, but new to everyone. Phra That Si Mueang Pong Pagoda, also called Wat Ban Pong, took 19 years to build. Now it’s finished. It sits high on a quiet hill surrounded by trees. That morning, I left the city behind, curious to see what nearly two decades of care had created.

Getting to the Temple: Two Songthaews and a Choice

I caught a red songthaew from Nimmanhaemin Road and asked the driver for Wat Ban Pong. The ride took about 45 minutes, winding past rice fields and small villages. I paid 40 baht and got out at the base of the temple.

From there, I had two options: walk the 900+ forest steps or pay another 40 baht to take a second red songthaew up the narrow road to the top. Private vehicles, including cars and motorbikes, are not allowed beyond the base. Only these public red trucks make the final climb. I looked at the stairs and decided to walk.

Climbing the Forest Path

The climb is relatively short but very steep. The stairs rise through a forest that hums with insects and birds. The path stays shaded under thick trees. Bells line the railings in places, and I tapped each one as I passed. Their soft ring echoed behind me.

I stopped often. The smell of damp stone, old wood, and warm leaves reminded me I was deep in the hills. A monk passed silently, his orange robe bright against the green. I nodded. He nodded back.

The Pagoda at the Summit

At the top, the white pagoda stood clean and bright. Gold trim framed the structure. I stepped inside the gate and felt the wind move across the terrace. The sky was wide and open. I leaned on the stone railing and looked out over the valley.

This was not a tourist temple. No loudspeakers. No crowds. Just a quiet, finished place after nearly two decades of construction.

Coffee at the Bottom

We stopped at Bannok Coffee Roasters, just a short ride from the temple. This riverside cafe sits at the edge of the hills, surrounded by greenery and the soft sound of running water. The setting felt both peaceful and playful—kids ran near a shallow stream while adults sat at shaded tables, some sipping slowly, others chatting in low tones.

I ordered a caramel pour-over with an espresso chaser—bright, bold, with a bold finish that held onto its Thai roots. The coffee tasted raw and full, not overly processed. I appreciated that. Steven had a cold brew, and we both agreed we’d take a few bags of beans home.

The staff were warm and welcoming, quick to answer questions and happy to chat about the menu. Whether you’re cycling through or just looking for a place to sit and exhale, Bannok felt like a reward. I kept thinking—back in the US, this would be packed, and you’d pay twice the price.

What to Know Before You Go

• Full name: Phra That Si Mueang Pong Pagoda (Wat Ban Pong)
• Getting there: Take a red songthaew from Chiang Mai and ask for Wat Ban Pong. Fare is 40 baht.
• Final stretch: At the base, either climb the 900+ steps or pay 40 baht more to ride a second red songthaew to the top. Private vehicles, including motorbikes, are not allowed past the base.
• What to bring: Water, sun protection, and good walking shoes
• Time to visit: Mornings are cooler and quieter
• Food and drink: A cafe sits across from the temple gate with coffee and light snacks

Final Thoughts

Like Wat Ban Den, another favorite temple outside Chiang Mai that’s been under construction for years, Phra That Si Mueang Pong Pagoda took 19 years to complete. And the care shows. Every part of the experience—the steep climb through the forest, the quiet space at the top, the wide views, and the riverside coffee after—felt intentional.

 

 

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