Visiting the DMZ: A Firsthand Look at Korea’s Divided Country

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Join me as we go on a DMZ tour, the most heavily militarized border in the world, dividing North and South Korea. This firsthand experience offers a unique look at the tension and history that has shaped the Korean Peninsula. Though no troops stand guard here, the area is secured by landmines, barbed wire, and tank stoppers. The DMZ tour provides a rare opportunity to witness the stark contrast between the two countries and understand why this tour is a must for all Americans stationed in South Korea.

Table of Contents

• The Day I Went on the DMZ Tour
• Tick Visiting the DMZ off My Bucket List
• Why I Decided to Visit the DMZ
• Korean War History
• Still Fighting the Korean War
• What is the DMZ Tour?
• The Tour of JSA
• 3rd Underground Tunnel
• The Dora Observatory
• Noise Deterrents
• Joint Security Area (JSA)
• The Axe Murders
• Dorasan Station
• Defection of Travis King
• My Thoughts About the DMZ Tour
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What to Expect on the DMZ Tour

The border between North and South Korea

First of all, you are greeted by a large sign that states, “You must sign.” However, it is worded to get your full attention, as visiting the DMZ is still a very dangerous place.

The DMZ, straddling the border between North and South Korea, is not a hot spot for tourist activity. However, it is a must-see destination for military families stationed on the peninsula especially if you want to get a perspective on why soldiers were originally assigned to Korea. And why they are still there now.

This is the scariest and most interesting place I’ve ever visited

— Karen Reynolds-Chen from Washington

Tick Visiting the DMZ Tour off My Bucket List

These are just a couple of the instructions we were given when I visited the 43rd country on my bucket list yesterday—North Korea. Those were the first lines of the form I was required to sign. I read it to the end. Most of the people in attendance did too. A soldier delivered the briefing behind a pair of very intimidating shades meant to intimidate– trust me it works. They look totally badass.

Why I Decided to go on the DMZ Tour

I won’t overwhelm you with too much Korean, political, or military history. However, you need some background to understand why the DMZ exists. I also apologize for the unavoidable military acronyms. Korea enjoyed dynastic rule until 1910, when Japan colonized it. Japan controlled the peninsula until 1945.

After Japan surrendered in 1945, the country divided into two parts: the north, protected by the Soviets, and the south, protected mainly by the United States. In 1948, both sides failed to agree on forming a single government or ideology. And this divider became the modern states of North (DPRK) and South Korea.

Korean War History

The Korean War began on 25 June 1950, when the North Koreans invaded the south across the 38th parallel all the way down the south near the port city of Busan. UN forces pushed them back across the 38th parallel and the fighting lasted for 3 years.

Still Fighting the Korean War

An Armistice Agreement was signed on July 27, 1953, and remains in effect. The DMZ Tour makes it clear the war is not over. The armistice is only a cease-fire between military forces and not an agreement between the two governments. Consequently, no peace treaty has ever been signed which means that the Korean War has not officially ended. North Korea has announced it will not abide by the armistice 6 separate times.

South Korea has prospered and maintains a functional democracy and electoral system of government based on Capitalism. Meanwhile, North Korea has evolved into the world’s first monarchial Communist State where power has been transferred from father to son to grandson. The people rely on economic aid and live under a weird cult-like society where the supreme leader is more God-like than man.

What is the DMZ?

The DMZ or Demilitarized Zone is a 155 miles long and 2.5 miles wide strip of land that runs east to west. It practically cuts the Korean Peninsula in half. It is the most heavily militarized border in the world. However, there are no troops in the DMZ itself except in the JSA. It is guarded by pillboxes, landmines, barbed wire, and tank stoppers.

And either side of the imaginary border used to be shared heightened tensions, threats and even deaths occurred. As a result, now each country stays on its side of the border. It remains dangerous due to intermittent violence from the North. So, of course, I had to see it for myself.

The Tour of JSA

The Daegu Chapter of the Good Neighbor Program sponsored the tour. However, there are numerous comparable tours to choose from. Our tour began at 0630 in Daegu with a 5-hour bus trip to the border. We picked up our tour guide after a bulgogi lunch at Imijigak Unification Park and North Korea Center. There was a “rally” taking place, so I stayed away from the main buildings. I also walked around the statues and aircraft in the park.

The Peace Trail offers a rare opportunity to walk along a portion of the DMZ. This trail was recently opened as part of a government initiative to promote peace and awareness of the Korean War’s legacy. As you hike through this heavily restricted area, you’ll pass observation points, barbed wire fences, and untouched nature, making the experience both sobering and serene. It’s a powerful reminder of the ongoing tensions, but also a symbol of hope for reunification.

At the Peace Eco Exhibition Hall, you’ll dive deeper into the ecological and historical significance of the DMZ. This hall showcases the rare wildlife that has flourished in the untouched buffer zone between North and South Korea. It also highlights the area’s tumultuous history through interactive exhibits, artifacts, and detailed accounts of key events. The hall serves as both an educational experience and a tribute to the resilience of nature and the people affected by the Korean conflict. It also gives you the best view of North Korea from the observation deck.

Military personnel cannot participate in foreign demonstrations. It’s impossible to know who is in the crowd and it could be dangerous. So I rejoined the group. However, there are also over 400 photos and documents on display in the North Korea Center of Unification Board.

3rd Underground Tunnel

The 3^rd Tunnel is one of the 4 known tunnels under the border discovered in 1978. It runs from north to south 240 feet underground. It was discovered after an explosion and never completed. The intercept tunnel was quite steep and hard to keep from feeling like gravity would take me at any time.

Once at the bottom the hard hats we were required to wear came in handy. Illustrated by the fact that I hit my hat several times while walking through the tunnels. The walls are cool and wet and there is a freshwater well with potable water. You cannot take personal belongings into the tunnels. But there are free lockers available to store your belongings. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take photos of the tunnels. However, don’t attempt the tunnel if you are claustrophobic, suffer from asthma, or difficulty breathing.

The Dora Observatory

On a clear day, you can see the 3rd largest city of Gaesung in North Korea, as well as Kijongdong Village. Kijongdong was renamed Propaganda Village by UNC forces. For 500 Won you can even spy on North North Korea through binoculars. However, today the weather is like soup. Therefore the binoculars couldn’t cut through the fog.

The village was created by the DPRK after the South Korean Forces settled in Daeseong-dong, aka Freedom Village, the community where the villagers who live and farm the DMZ live. The only way to become a village member is to be born into it or by marriage (women only). Entry into the village is prohibited, but we drove by it on our way to the JSA. The South Korean government subsidizes the villagers. They own approximately 17 acres of farmland, live in larger-than-average homes, and make approximately $92,000 per year. The ROK government installed a 100m tall flag pole in a strange but not unusual chain of events.

Noise Deterrents

The North Koreans, not to be undone, installed a taller pole measuring 160 m, one of the tallest in the world. The flag is humungous and has a dry weight of more than 40 pounds. Kijongdong Village is also the source of a loudspeaker, one of many in the area that blares propaganda about the supreme leader and the North Korean government to the villagers, hence the name. If they do defect, they won’t find anyone at home. The village is fake; many of the buildings have painted doors and windows. There is a really good model of the area on display inside. No photos are allowed.

Joint Security Area (JSA)

It’s important to note that I have not included any sensitive information or images. With that being said, JSA was the part of the tour I was most interested in seeing because of the images I had seen over the years. It is the place where both countries stand and face each other on a day to day basis. It is also the spot where you can cross over into North Korea albeit in an empty conference room used for negotiations.

After a briefing and transfer from our commercial buses to UN buses, we toured JSA. We were escorted to the Joint Security Area that includes the Freedom House and the MAC (Military Armistice Commission) Conference Room. Afterward, we toured the area that included the Bridge of No Return where prisoners of war were exchanged, an unmanned checkpoint (since the 1980s), and the memorial to where two American officers were killed in 1976.

The Axe Murders

The DMZ has been the site of some truly awful events, and the Axe Murder Incident is perhaps the most notorious of them all. In August 1976, American and South Korean soldiers set out to trim a large poplar tree that partially obstructed the view from an observation tower within the Joint Security Area (JSA). The mission seemed routine, but it quickly turned deadly.

Operation Paul Bunyon

As the soldiers began their task, they were suddenly and viciously assaulted by North Korean forces. In the chaos that ensued, two U.S. officers—Captain Arthur Boniface and Lieutenant Mark Barrett—were brutally killed with their own axes by the North Koreans. The violence was shocking in its brutality and escalated tensions in an already volatile area.

In response, the United States launched Operation Paul Bunyan, a massive show of force intended to complete the mission of cutting down the tree and to send a clear message to North Korea. They deployed hundreds of troops, supported by attack helicopters, B-52 bombers, and fighter jets, making it one of the most heavily militarized operations ever carried out in the DMZ. The overwhelming display of power worked; they cut down the tree without further incident, and North Korea later accepted responsibility for the murders.

As a tribute to Captain Boniface, the camp was renamed Camp Boniface. When we visited the DMZ, we drove past the very spot where those soldiers were killed. We also saw the Bridge of No Return, a haunting reminder of the division, and the exact location where the poplar tree once stood. There is something profoundly surreal about standing in a place where such a tragic event occurred—something that reading about it in a book simply can’t convey. Seeing these sites in person makes the history feel real and immediate, and it serves as a stark reminder of the tensions that continue to exist on the Korean Peninsula.

Dorasan Station

Dorasan Station is more than just the last train stop in South Korea; it stands as a powerful symbol of hope and division. Located just 650 meters from the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), it’s a station with no passengers, a place where the tracks extend northward into uncertainty. Despite this, Dorasan Station is a crucial stop on the proposed intercontinental rail system that could one day link the Korean Peninsula with Europe.

Currently, the station sits quietly, a modern yet eerily empty facility that reflects the complex relationship between the two Koreas. They constructed it with the future in mind—a future where the Korean Peninsula is reunified, and trains travel freely across borders, connecting South Korea to destinations across Asia and Europe. The station’s presence is a reminder of the potential for peace and the ongoing division that keeps the dream of this rail system unrealized.

Visitors to Dorasan Station can walk along the platform, gaze down the tracks that disappear into the DMZ, and reflect on what might be possible if the political landscape were different. It’s a poignant experience, one that brings to life the aspirations for reunification and the stark realities of the current geopolitical situation. The station itself is fully operational, complete with ticket booths and a customs area, ready to serve passengers who have yet to come. It’s a station waiting for a journey that hasn’t begun—a powerful testament to hope, perseverance, and the ever-present possibility of change.

Defection of Travis King

I first visited Korea in 1977 when I was eleven years old. That trip left me with countless wonderful memories, but I don’t recall hearing about the Axe Murder Incident at the time. Fast forward to today, if you’re planning a visit to the DMZ, there are some important things you should know. The DMZ is not your typical tourist destination; it’s a place where history, tension, and geopolitics collide.

This week, the DMZ and Joint Security Area (JSA) Tours have made front-page news due to the recent defection of a former U.S. soldier. Travis King, a 23-year-old Private First Class, recently discharged from the U.S. Army, joined a JSA Tour and ultimately sought asylum from the North Korean government.

There is still much we don’t know about the circumstances surrounding King’s defection. However, we do know that King had just finished serving a two-month sentence in a South Korean prison for assault. He was supposed to return to the United States, where he would face further punishment at Fort Bliss. Instead, King managed to evade his military escort and, rather than boarding his flight back home, joined the JSA Tour. This unexpected turn of events has left many questions unanswered, and the situation continues to develop. We will update this post as more information becomes available.

My Thoughts About the DMZ Tour

The tour I took fascinated me and revealed the complex dynamics of the Korean Peninsula. Standing just steps from the border highlighted the war’s reality and ongoing tensions. A particularly striking moment involved learning about a Soviet asylum seeker who dashed desperately for freedom across the border. We felt shocked at how far he ran while over 20 North Korean soldiers chased and fired at him. He truly ran for his life.

Being there in person truly emphasizes the gravity of the situation. The experience makes the region’s tensions and history feel incredibly real. Travis King’s recent defection again highlights the DMZ’s unpredictable and high-stakes environment.

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