Our hike from Monterosso to Vernazza promised an adventure, yet it was tougher than any of us anticipated. A pinch of research would have clued us in, but we skipped that step. Similarly, we overlooked the weather forecast, adding another layer of unpredictability to our journey. “What could possibly go wrong?” we mused, envisioning a simple trek along a mountain ridge linking five quaint fishing villages. This oversight set the stage for an unforgettable experience. The Cinque Terre, with its rugged beauty along Italy’s Riviera, etched a lasting memory in our hearts, filled with lessons, laughter, and the sheer unpredictability of travel.
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Hiking the Cinque Terre
Hiking Cinque Terre— Italy’s Riviera
Our hike from Monterosso to Vernazza, already daunting, took an unexpected turn. As we reached the starting point, raindrops teased us, hinting at the challenge ahead. Soon, the sky unleashed a torrent, tempting us to retreat multiple times. I found myself offering hopeful lies to Kish about nearing the summit, fueled by a desire to see her pride at completing the hike. Deep down, I knew she would have preferred the comfort of a spa, with a refreshing drink in hand.
Despite this, Kish, ever the resilient spirit, tackled the steep steps carved into the mountain. Together, we navigated trails barely wide enough for our feet. A single misstep could mean a fall into the dark blue embrace of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Her determination underlined the journey, transforming our trek across the Cinque Terre into an even more memorable adventure. Through rain and uncertain paths, we discovered not just the beauty of Italy’s Riviera but the strength of our friendship.
The Descent
The day started off cool, but as we climbed higher and higher the clouds dissipated and the sun beat down on our backs. I tried to forget that this was only one leg of the 5-leg trek. Two hours of slippery rocks, muddy slopes, never-ending near-vertical stairways. The narrow trails at the top were intense and often without safety railings. But the views were astounding as we began the descent into the next town of Vernazza. The rain ceased and the sun became intense and without much shade from the rays of the August summer sun. It was hardly Mount Everest, but we really earned the lovely lunch we had in Vernazza.
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The Hike Between Vernazza and Corniglia
After lunch, we continued hiking Cinque Terre between Vernazza and Corniglia but returned fifteen minutes into the climb once Kish decided she had had enough. She said she’d meet us at the train station if we wanted to continue the hike. No argument we made could convince her otherwise, so we all turned around and caught the train to Corniglia instead.
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Corniglia
Once is Corniglia, we learned that the trail between it and Manarola was closed due to mudslides, so we wouldn’t have been able to do the whole hike anyway. We entertained ourselves in the local shops and ate a little gelato before making our way to the next part of the hike. The “Via dell’Amore” aka Lovers Lane is the easiest portion of the trail by far. It is completely flat and paved for easy access to both older and younger lovers. Love Locks– the popular trend of placing locks on permanent fixtures and throwing the key into the ocean symbolizes your love cannot be broken.
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Monterosso
Monterosso has the best beach, but we were in Riomaggiore, readily take a dip in the Mediterranean Ocean, but I forgot to put my suit on under my clothes. Kish and Carolyn didn’t, so they stripped down and jumped right in. I looked for someplace to change into my one piece. Too bad there wasn’t anywhere to do that. So for the first, which assumes there was a second time, I got butt naked on a public beach. I tried to hide behind a large rock, but people kept walking behind me and I was always exposed, so I gave up after a while and just took it all off to put my suit on.
The beach was different. Big boulders baked in the sun, making it nearly impossible to walk on. Slipping on the algae or stepping on what felt like hot coals. I waded into the warm water and promptly slipped and fell on the algae-covered boulders. I tried again and again I fell and lost my perception of which way was up.
Swimming in the Mediterranean
I felt a hand reach down and help me back on the rocks. Her name was Andrea and she turned out to be a beautiful Brazilian model traveling alone. She sat with me while my friends chided from the sea. I decided I had gone far enough, opting not to drown while on vacation. We sat there baking in the sun, being crushed by the waves.
The swimsuit I packed was too large. I had lost a little weight recently and I hadn’t tried it before the trip. The waves pummeled my swimsuit top so hard, it came undone— twice.
Each time, the boys nearby cheered and applauded with enthusiasm. Andrea laughed and said, no worries, love, it’s Italy. I laughed, too; I’m sure they would have preferred younger boobs to my 40+-year-old ones. Or maybe not; they still look pretty good.
Staying Afloat
During our hike through the Cinque Terre, a memorable moment unfolded by the beach. Andrea, a stunning model, became my unexpected savior when a massive wave dislodged me from my slippery spot on a large boulder. Reflecting on the event, it felt as though I had rescued her from the unwelcome attention of local onlookers. We settled into the shallow waters, engaging in conversation, while Kish and Carolyn displayed their aquatic prowess, darting through the water like porpoises.
Despite their playful invitations to join them, promising to keep me from sinking, I declined. The allure of Italy for me wasn’t a test of survival against the sea’s whims. Instead, I found contentment near the shore, embracing my role as a modern-day sea nymph amidst the backdrop of our adventure hiking Cinque Terre.
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