It was 6:05 and the ajusshi, an elderly man at the entrance of the Byukchoji Gardens, was friendly but didn’t allow me to enter. We spent too much time cafe hopping– the botanical garden in Paju closes at 7:00 pm, and the last tickets are sold at 6:00 pm. The next day, we arrived early in the morning. As expected, the ajusshi recognized me and reached out to shake my hand. Steven stayed in the car while I packed up my camera gear and umbrella.